After two decades of heavy investment and pioneering work by an infusion of ambitious winegrowers, Lake County - once better known for canoeing than cabernet - is re-launching itself, made over with more thoughtfully sited vineyards and state-of-the-art winemaking facilities. Although the just-north-of-Napa region has enjoyed a solid reputation for Sauvignon Blanc for a few decades, it was also known for uneven Cabernet Sauvignon and other reds. New plantings coming on line in the high-altitude Red Hills of Lake County and High Valley AVAs are already producing some head-turning wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

Grape growing in Lake County dates to the 1880s when the first commercial winery was developed there by David Voight. By 1920, there were some 10,000 acres under vine in the valley and hillsides surrounding Clear Lake. Then, during Prohibition, most of the vineyards were replaced with pear and walnut orchards, which, though they don't reliably produce bumper crops in the relatively infertile volcanic soils that dominate Lake County, are still a common sight. (READ MORE see PDF of article)

As California's winemakers begin the 2008 harvest, they are scrambling to find enough Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. After several years of bumper crops, Mother Nature turned fickle this year, offering up deep frosts, followed by hot weather and ultimately not enough rain. "This is one of the strangest weather patterns that I have seen in more than 30 years of farming," said Andy Beckstoffer, the largest independent grower on California's North Coast.

Growers and winemakers estimate that the state's grape crop, especially in such prime wine regions as Napa and Sonoma counties and the Santa Rita Hills near Solvang, could be 20% smaller than last year and as much as one-third less than a massive harvest in 2005. It's likely there won't be enough grapes to meet all the needs of wineries, said Beckstoffer, who has already sold most of what he is growing and came up 5 tons short on a 50-ton order of Sauvignon Blanc grapes last week. (READ MORE see PDF of article)

Responding to its remote location, far-flung wineries and limited visitor accommodations, Lake County wineries are adopting a popular European model - wine tourism.

At present, Lake County is short on high-end visitor facilities. The only real qualifiers are the Tallman Hotel and adjacent Blue Wing Saloon and Café in Upper Lake, far from most wineries. As a result, many wineries are developing lodging, food and entertainment facilities to host visitors, in some cases primarily members of the wine trade, but often with plans for the wine-loving public. (READ MORE see PDF of article)

A vineyard tour hosted by the Lake County Winegrape Commission led VIP guests including County Supervisors, city managers, chamber directors, and media representatives for a question and answer session, as well as a lunch and wine tasting.

Attendees were sent winegrape vines with an invitation attached, asking them to meet at the County courthouse where they boarded a bus that took them to... (READ MORE - See Winegrape News Winter 2008 Newsletter)

2005 Gregory Graham, Bartolucci Vineyards, Lake County ($20): One simply does not often see wines of this quality bearing $20 stickers. Yet that is exactly what this fresh, fruity, full-bodied and impeccably balanced wine delivers. Its style is tighter and racier than the softer wines from the Central Valley, and it is more likely to go with fish and shellfish than with sweet-basted chicken.

87 Points     Six Sigma 2006 Michael's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County)     $28.00.
Lots of new French oak barrel fermentation and less stirring went into the making of this wine, and it shows the yeasty richness and creamy texture of that expensive handling. Yet the underlying wine is just very good. It has very bright acidity, and slightly sweet flavors of spearmint chewing gum, lemons and limes.

85 Points     Six Sigma 2006 Rooster Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County)     $20.00.
Lots to like in this dry, crisp Sauvignon Blanc. It shows ripe grapefruit, peach, lemongrass, peppery spice and gooseberry flavors, but those sensitive to aggressively pungent scents will be turned off.

87 Points     Guenoc 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County)     $18.00.
Soft and gentle in the mouth with a silky texture, this very ripe Cab shows jammy blackberry, cherry, vanilla and smoke flavors. This is the best Lake County Cab from Guenoc in years.

87 Points     COPAIN     $26.00
Madder Lake, Lake County 2004
Sweet, raspberry-like fruit is joined by slightly peppery spice and light notes of briar and dark chocolate in both the well-defined aromas and bright, medium-density flavors of this yet-to-evolve youngster, and, if firmed up by both tannins and acids at the finish, the wine exhibits good depth and should come into its own with five years of age.